Post by daz on Apr 3, 2007 23:07:33 GMT
It seems over the last few months that Spring is in the air...well for the southern hemisphere anyway and that Breeding for some is all what is on there budgies mind. I thought after a discussion in club that I would discuss the best requirements for setting up a breeding cage.
The breeding cage should be purpose build or bought . I use a timber breeding cage that is 600 long x 450 high by 350 depth (measurements in metric millimeters) so thats 24 inches x 18inches x 14 inches.
In this picture you can see the cage with the nest box on the inside. I have change the concept to hang the nest box on the outside.
Nest box on the outside.
The larger the breeding cage the better. I would not go under this size.
The same with the nest box.
This was the last size I made measuring 250mm high x 210mm wide x 153mm deep.
I have changed this to now 250mm (10") High x 215mm (81/2") deep x 210mm (81/4") wide .
Similar to the breeding cage, budgies like a large nest box.
The perches are now different sizes. I use a 12mm and an 18mm round hard wood dowl. but will be changing all to 12mm round dowl and an 19 mm square perch for the hen. The difference in sizes are to excersize the feet of the bird. 2 successful clutches can take over 100 days minimum so the birds are cramped up in the breeding cage for sometime.
Breeding cages can be "Stacked"
I currently run 9 breeding cages, a nursery and a full flight.
The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.
Water that is replace everyday.
I use a water management system that involve vitamins, probotic, calcium additives and plain water.
Medication and worming is also administered via the management.
In addition I have a cuttlefish, a finger draw with minerals, an Iodine and charcoal bell.
The hen is placed in the cage for 3 days before introducing the cock.
Bonding is a nesacary factor to breeding. I have had to split up pairs because they haven't got along.
I supply every morning to the breeding pair a mixture of Hulled oats, carrots and protien.
As the eggs hatch I will increase the level of Protien for the parents to feed the chicks.
This mixture is removed every night and the remainder is feed to the birds in the flight.
When the chicks get to 24 days old.
I will start to give them a 3 inch piece of Millet in the nest to help them start to feed themselves.
From 28 days on wards the chicks will start to come out of the nest.
This is the time I make sure there is plenty of seed, millet, soft food and vegitables for the chicks.
I use celery, carrots, corn, snow pea sprouts and mung bean sprouts in the dishes for the chicks. The mix is given in the morning and removed in the afternoon in winter or lunch time in summer. The remainder is thrown away. It is not safe for the birds in the flight.
The chicks are weighed weekly to see if they are sustaining their weight. At 42 days old and all going well they are moved from the breeding cage.
To the nursery.
The nursery is a dual cage or stock cage that is 1200mm long 450mm high x 350mm deep.
It is set up the same as the breeding cage less the nest box. The capability of puting a devider in to make two cages is to make it easy to weigh and check the chicks for progress every week for a month.
The chicks are given a high level of protein and vegitables every day.
At the age of 3 months the chicks start to moult. Moulting Aid can be given and the chick can be observed.
After the moult has finished the chick can be transfered to the flight.
The chicks are still feed with vegitables and are closely monitored.
I keep all recordes of the condition of the eggs through to the chicks in the flight on two programes.
Bird Tracker and The Budgerigar Program
Be prepared for the worst and you will do well. read up on the proceedure. I recommend the Master Breeder for information on Breeding. Join a club and get information from the ones that are experienced in breeding.
The breeding cage should be purpose build or bought . I use a timber breeding cage that is 600 long x 450 high by 350 depth (measurements in metric millimeters) so thats 24 inches x 18inches x 14 inches.
In this picture you can see the cage with the nest box on the inside. I have change the concept to hang the nest box on the outside.
Nest box on the outside.
The larger the breeding cage the better. I would not go under this size.
The same with the nest box.
This was the last size I made measuring 250mm high x 210mm wide x 153mm deep.
I have changed this to now 250mm (10") High x 215mm (81/2") deep x 210mm (81/4") wide .
Similar to the breeding cage, budgies like a large nest box.
The perches are now different sizes. I use a 12mm and an 18mm round hard wood dowl. but will be changing all to 12mm round dowl and an 19 mm square perch for the hen. The difference in sizes are to excersize the feet of the bird. 2 successful clutches can take over 100 days minimum so the birds are cramped up in the breeding cage for sometime.
Breeding cages can be "Stacked"
I currently run 9 breeding cages, a nursery and a full flight.
The breeding cage has seed soaked in breeding aid.
Water that is replace everyday.
I use a water management system that involve vitamins, probotic, calcium additives and plain water.
Medication and worming is also administered via the management.
In addition I have a cuttlefish, a finger draw with minerals, an Iodine and charcoal bell.
The hen is placed in the cage for 3 days before introducing the cock.
Bonding is a nesacary factor to breeding. I have had to split up pairs because they haven't got along.
I supply every morning to the breeding pair a mixture of Hulled oats, carrots and protien.
As the eggs hatch I will increase the level of Protien for the parents to feed the chicks.
This mixture is removed every night and the remainder is feed to the birds in the flight.
When the chicks get to 24 days old.
I will start to give them a 3 inch piece of Millet in the nest to help them start to feed themselves.
From 28 days on wards the chicks will start to come out of the nest.
This is the time I make sure there is plenty of seed, millet, soft food and vegitables for the chicks.
I use celery, carrots, corn, snow pea sprouts and mung bean sprouts in the dishes for the chicks. The mix is given in the morning and removed in the afternoon in winter or lunch time in summer. The remainder is thrown away. It is not safe for the birds in the flight.
The chicks are weighed weekly to see if they are sustaining their weight. At 42 days old and all going well they are moved from the breeding cage.
To the nursery.
The nursery is a dual cage or stock cage that is 1200mm long 450mm high x 350mm deep.
It is set up the same as the breeding cage less the nest box. The capability of puting a devider in to make two cages is to make it easy to weigh and check the chicks for progress every week for a month.
The chicks are given a high level of protein and vegitables every day.
At the age of 3 months the chicks start to moult. Moulting Aid can be given and the chick can be observed.
After the moult has finished the chick can be transfered to the flight.
The chicks are still feed with vegitables and are closely monitored.
I keep all recordes of the condition of the eggs through to the chicks in the flight on two programes.
Bird Tracker and The Budgerigar Program
Be prepared for the worst and you will do well. read up on the proceedure. I recommend the Master Breeder for information on Breeding. Join a club and get information from the ones that are experienced in breeding.